E: In the middle of the world

Greetings, family, friends and fellow internet users!

Ecuador is Spanish for equator. Right north of Quito, you find a location marking La mitad del mundo (middle of the world). I was there yesterday (the pic ain't mine, but taken from wikimedia).

I am in Quito, Ecaduor, about to head south towards the Cañar range. Being a journalist is great when you get paid to tell people what you learn, and even greater when you get to explore the world while doing so.

Through my journalist position in Agenda 3:16, the Christian montlhy magazine for which I work, I am shipped off to South America for the ongoing two weeks. I will go around in this exotic land full of contrasts, scenery, warm cultures and cool people with black hair. My Spanish has also somehow been mainted ok. Even if it is fairly plain and simple, I remember more than I thought I would and get by fine. Doing interviews still require a bit of translator-help once in a while.

We landed yesterday, after about 24 hours of journeying and when going to bed last night I had been up close to 48 hours - as sleeping sitting in a plane is not my strongest skill. I still woke up fresh and ready this morning after studying the backside of my eyelids for about 7 hours.

The forecast said rain, but the sun is up. Hopefully this can be applied to my inner self as well.

I do not know how much internet access I will have from here and out, and my mobile phone does not support the required network. But I am alive, well and feel fine.

Liverpool stars

I met Pepe Reina today. The Spanish goalkeeper for Liverpool FC was both friendly and fun to shake hands with. Also Jamie Carragher paid my note block a visit before rushing into a car at the Merseyside training facility.

I am in Liverpool. As a journalist. Covering the fullfilment of dreams from a young lad from Brøstadbotn – my home town. With his Liverpool-hooked family, the 11-year-old goalkeeper Sindre (yes, that is my name too), got to meet the player he one days want to outbeat: Reina. We also had a good look and great personalized tour of Anfield Road, the home stadium, from Brian Hall himself, an important midfielder for The Reds in the 60s and 70s. And we actually got to step out onto the very grass ground.. Sweet.

After shipping the story to Norway to be published in Troms Folkeblad tomorrow, we went out to eat at Jamie Carragher’s restaurant Cafe Sports with two of Liverpool Football Club’s biggest fans: Sam and Lisa, who helped sort this wonderful trip out with all their connections into the club.

Albeit being at work today and having a rush with finishing writing my story, I had a childlike enjoyment with meeting the players and visiting the gigantic stadium in Stanley park. And tomorrow Liverpool plays Hull at Anfield and we will watch it from VIP seats.

Albert Docks and the Beatles museums will also be paid a visit either tomorrow or Sunday. We return from Manchester on Monday.

You will never walk alone

E: Happy travels – Ecua’pool

There is so much insight to gain from spending time in new places, with diverse people, with unfamiliar customs and different cultures. Within a week two fresh travel destinations have been set and almost scheduled.

1) Liverpool
Between December 11th and 15th I will be on the northwest coast of England in the docking city of Liverpool. More than being the home of the Beatles, it has Anfield Road – the home of the greatest soccer team in history. I am slightly biased, but many a person with an interest for the popular sport, would wanna go to see the Reds play. That I will do on Saturday the 13th: Liverpool versus Hull. The day before I will get to greet and meet some of the players – in person. Actually going to Livepool, has been a wish since childhood.

The reason is another Sindre from Brøstadbotn supporting Liverpool. The 11-year-old 6th-grader dreams of become a goalie for Liverpool. The bravery of sharing this ambition in front of the audience during Dyrøyseminaret 2008 (a small community-conference aiming to inspire, recruit and utilize the people and opportunities in less dense areas), winded up giving him a trip to Great Britain to meet some of his heroes in action.

See and read the story (in Norwegian) here.

I will be the journalist covering the journey, a very likable assignment.

2) Ecuador
A couple of weeks of February 2009 I will spend on the west coast of South America, in the land of Ecuador. I will get to refresh my Spanish and explore the tropical climate because of work. The trip will be as a journalist for Agenda 3:16 – the Christian monthly magazine for which I work.


Sweet

E: Czeching out

The abroad part of my broad range of summer activities has come to an end. From Friday till today (Thursday), the Czech Republic has been ridden by two best friend: Thor-Oskar and I. 10 years since we explored England through STS language course in Bournemouth, we once again left Norway together. The most important part of the journey, was traveling with him.

Most countries in the same region look alike. So do people. Still the differences which are fun revealing. Furthermore, my experience is that after paying a new country a visit, I see memories, life and images when looking at the map – rather than the somewhat dull green, brown and blue areas on the map. The Czech Republic has many cities with a dense concentration of stylish old Middle Age and Baroque buildings. Yet, there are (possibly due to an ignorant lack of background reasearch and history) not all that many must-see-unique-sites or particular famous museums or galliries needing to be paid a visit. I do not drink, but could observe that beer is cheaper than bottled water or soda. There are policemen in certain areas hired to control traffic lights manually in major intersections. School children spend time learning dancing in school. It is a long time since I needed more German than Enlighs to communicate with people (if not in in Germany). And marionette puppets are popular – and its theatre rocks :)

The weather has been wet and somewhat cool, but rather chilly than overheated. This allowed us to walk and cycle about the central European state. Observe a brief synopsis of the stay:
1) Praha (Sightseeing)
2) Kutná Hora (including the Sedlec Ossuary)
3) Liberec (visiting my friend Luke with girlfriend Claudia)
4) Vlachrabi (downhill mountain biking)
5) České Budějovice (walking around)
6) Český Krumlov (pictureqsque pearl)
7) Praha (pool, marionette puppet theatre)

Albeit being loaded with activities. I believe I probably think slightly less on activity-dense excursions. This, I believe is due to the amount of impressions in need of processing – which has to be delayed till later. It is similar to shooting a multiple photo series. You need to stop shooting to view, and even then it takes a little bit of time for the pictures to be accessible on the screen.

What can a week do to one’s life? Fairly little or quite a lot. I do not recall all working weeks the last couple of months, but it I would need a fairly solid knock on my head to wash this voyage out of my memory. We had a great week with new wisdom, thoughts, laughs and experiences.

Tomorrow I am off again for the weekend – this time to visit my friend Kjetil in his natural environment around Vennesla (close to Kristiansand) down south.

E: Summer of ’08

Picture taken from Nothing is permanent except change

Oslo’s spring has been blessed with temperatures for the following season and summerly beems for the last couple of weeks. Summer is near. While my agenda is to be, not do. But where being will take place is close to decided. In short: Weddings, grade school reunion and the Czech Republic.

Week 27: Last week of work. Friday I fly to Bodø to attend my cousin Norvald’s wedding the day after. Sunday June 29th is labour day for my sister-in-law. Silas is set to be born then (in Oslo). I keep heading up north though, driving home to Brøstadbotn (my home town) with my sister.

Week 28: Summer in Brøstadbotn (Dyrøy kommune, Troms fylke/region). Saturday, July 5th, I will take part in the 10-year reunion of my grade school class (year of 1998). Everyone will not be able to make it, and tragically two of our class mates have passed away (RIP), but I believe all wish to be there – and many will come in remembrance of those early year of education, fellowship and friendships.

Week 29: From Tromsø I fly to Bergen Tuesday July 8th to prepare for the honourable task of being the best man in my friend Sathees’ wedding. The Sri-Lankan born buddy will marry his Judina on July 12th. The following day I return to Oslo by train.

Week 30: Finally get to see my nephew Silas. I also plan to work a bit Monday through Thursday. Friday (July 18) I fly to the Czech republic with my best friend, Thor Oskar. None of us has been to the central/eastern European country, and it has been a long time since just the two of us travelled together. This summer he has received an approved leave of absence from his lovely wife Kristin, and us two childhood pals will go explore new land. I also have a friend from Australia, Luke, staying up north in the city of Liberec, which we will hopefully go see.

Week 31: After returning to Oslo July 24th, I am invited down south in Norway for a barbeque on the day after and the wedding ceremony on the Saturday for my friend and a former student college mate in Daniel. I am still undecided about going.

Week 32: Back to work. But I will expand the weekend somewhat with yet another wedding on the island of Senja in the honor of my firend Camilla and her Swedish prince Gustaf. I am happily chosen to be their host (the Swedish equivalent of toastmaster).

E: Amsterdam & Haag documented

A few shots from my stay-over in Amsterdam and Haag on my way back from Mali in February. Here I had a most hospital host in and a great time catching up with Arosha. See the album with a few of the memories saved through my viewfinder.

More pictures are scheduled to appear later this week from Paris, Poland and my Easter with my family up in the north of Norway.

Amsterdam & Haag feb 08

E: Polish arrival

I am in Poland. With my travel mate Kjetil, Krakow is hereby becoming a familiar city. Its center is far from the largest I have seen, but the Old Town surrounding the main market square has a lot of charm.

We arrived this morning and have spent the day in the city. Tomorrow we will hit the salt mines and Sunday will be devoted to explore the concentration camps of Auschwitz and Birkenau. Then we move to Warsaw where we will finish the remaining monday and tuesday before returning to Norway.

We enjoy ourselves down here and have a lot of fun together.

A few Polish observations/impressions:
* The country is slighty more modern/like the West than anticipated: the cars are modern and the way of dressing too.
* Pollution and overcast enhanced the impression of Polish (urban) landscape being less colorful than home.
* Many of the boys have army cut hair style or lone of the 80s.
* English skills are decent.
* There are very few non-whites around. If it has to do with immigration policy, country economy, racial attitudes or something else.

E: Mali visualized

Mali

13 of 14 days in Mali were spent with work. That left little time to snap photos not meant for my magazine. I still managed to press the shutter button a great number of times off work. Some of them are to be seen here. The pics are from random places in or in between the different locations I visited throughout my stay.

E: Trip is over - not the journey

Back in Oslo after almost three weeks out and about. France (Paris), Mali and Netherlands (Amsterdam/Haag) have all provided memories that will wash off. It is half an hour past midnight and I will be heading for working in the morning. Thus, this is more a confirmation saying I am back home, all safe and sound, and being most grateful for what I have experienced.

”Real” is still the one word I find describing my experience of Mali the best. And ”really good” if I am to use two :). I have met a lot of cool people and cultures. The weather has been hot and dry, but it has been awesome just walking around in sandals for a couple of weeks. Maliens are very friendly and forthcoming, and the Christians very thankful for salvation. Most converted persons (from Islam) have strong testimonies and many live through a tough everyday due to the change of faith.

I worked 13 of the 14 days I was down there. But I sure would not have traded it for some regular working weeks back home. Most conversations and interviewees were most exciting to talk to. However, the busy working days disallowed leisure and taking pictures of my own. Some I have snapped though, and a few will be presented as soon as get my head around the pile of stuff, which has been waiting for me.

Tuesday night I left Mali, and Wednesday morning I excited Schipol airport, after flying via Paris. My friend Arosha lives and works in Haag, and she was a great hostess and buddy for the day spare before returning to Norway. We spent time catching up, cracking up, do some last-minute-shopping (as she flew to Australia this morning) and eating up the great disches she made. Her boyfriend Joey + other friend Thomas came for a fun dinner get-together also. After parting again at Schipol this morning, I stored my luggage in a locker, and walked around Amsterdam city center for a few hours, before cathing my own flight back tonight.

All impressions have not been processed, but there is no doubt in my mind about the this being a big thumps up trip.

X: Mali beams/stråler

Mali itinerary/reiserute
22. jan – Arrival/Ankomst Bamako
24. jan – Oussubidanja
28. jan – Bafoulabe
1. feb – Tambaga
2. feb – Bamako
5. feb – Departure/Hjemreise

At last I am back online. I have had my withdrawal symptoms, but thoroughly enjoyed the past days of travelling, working, writing, taking pictures and meet places, cultures, foods and people. Overall I am left with an impression of authenticity. Mali is for real. Untouristified. I enjoy it.

Here are some of my observations from the past few days.
• It is great to be in a country where the majority is non-white. A much more representative image of the world population (compared to being in Norway and/or looking at TV)
• Although I have never been to West-Africa, travelling and facing new countries have a bit of familiarity which eases the transition.
• The language barrier can be a frustrating experience. Especially for a journalist. Knowing languages do not mean much when you do not know the ones in the country you are in.
• The windows start-up sound has a bit of a dissonance in the Mali bush.
• Even the most exotic places in the world are also someone’s everyday. It is fascinating how one can be thrilled by this.
• If you stay long enough in a place with little electricity and run by daylight, one’s daily rhythm will adapt.
• It is possible to get used not being online all the time
• The thought of becoming a missionary does not frighten me, albeit it may very well never become reality.

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Det har tatt sin tid, men nå er jeg endelig med noenlunde normal nettilgang igjen i Bamako. Jeg har jobbet alle dagene siden jeg kom til landet, men har nytt dem alle sammen. Det har vært svært mange inntrykk og møter, mange som jeg ennå ikke har fordøyd eller unnagjort. Men generelt sitter jeg med en tilfredshet av ekthet. Mali er ekte. Uturistfisert. Jeg liker meg her. Ettersom jeg foreløpig ikke for logget på fra egen maskin, vil det ikke komme bilder i denne omgang.

Under følger et lite utvalg betraktninger i løpet av dagene i Vest-Afrika.
• Det er deilig å være i et land der flertallet ikke er hvite – et mye mer representativt bilde av verden (sammenlignet med det å være i Norge og/eller se på TV)
• Støvet har på et vis en lukt, men døyver samtidig for en bombardering av nesen.
• Selv om det er eksotisk og annerledes, er det noe med langdistansereisng som er gjenkjennelig og formidler overbelastningen av hensyn, styr og inntrykk.
• Språkbarriere kan være en frustrerende opplevelse. Særlig for en journalist
• Det er litt merkelig at jeg kan sitte i svarteste Afrika og chatte på MSN med det hviteste Nordnorge (dette var i Bamako før jeg dro ut i bushen).
• De mest eksotiske stedene i verden er som regel alltids noen hverdag. Så er også tilfelle i Malis gater. Esel og vogn tar over som søppelbil. Reklameskilter fungerer som kveldslys. Noen firfirsler på veggen er vanligere enn ti duer på taket. Det er fascinerende hvordan man lar seg fascinere av det hverdagslige.
• Windows-oppstarten på laptopen høres noe malplassert ut ute i bushen, selv om folk her har fått både parabol, mobil og aggregater.
• Mali-landskapet noe ensformig i landskap og farger i tørketiden, og hudfargen nokså homogen, men det feies opp av et flora av kulturer og etnisiteter. Norge har et fargerikt land, men et stivere og mer ensformet folk.
• Noe av det fineste stoffet til klesdrakter, minner om både duker og presenning på en gang.
• Landsby. En by på landet. I praksis lever så å si alle egentlig i by.
• Mennesket er svært så tilpasningsdyktig.
• Er man lenge nok på et sted styrt av dagslys og lite strøm, endres dagsrytmen deretter.
• Det går an å venne seg til ikke å være på Internett titt og stadig.
• Tanken på å bli misjonær skremmer meg ikke, selv om det godt kan hende det ikke blir noe av.

E: Mali!!!!

I am here. In Bamako. The capital of the hot, West-African, landlocked nation. About 12 million people are spread on a area corresponding to that of South Africa. After several hours airborne thanks to Air France, we landed this evening on time, sometime after 9 pm. I appreciate being in a country where the majority is not white. This is the case in most countries in the world, but not the image given in the West and through the media. I enjoy entering a new country, with all its different smells, sounds, tastes, feelings and things to look at.

On the same flight where three other former missionaries which are especially invited to partake in the festivities regarding the completed new testament of the tribal language kassonke. Normisjon, the organization for which I work, is behind the alphabetization of the language and now translation of the newest part of the Bible.

It is time to hit the sack, and in this guesthouse owned by my organization, we are blessed with both aircondition and mosquito net. Temperature wise, it is fairly cool though – “only” around 25 degrees Celsius. When the sun resurfaces, the heat will increase a fair bit.

More to come. Much more. Hopefully I will be able to share a bit before I am back in Norway. It will be hectic and with limited internet access. But it is fun. I particularly appreciate being in a place being fairly sheltered from the West and tourism.

Adjø Paris

Frankrikes hovedstad vil huskes som et godt sted å være. Om få timer, setter jeg av sted til flyplassen med en reisebag som skal sendes til Bamako.

Paris har mye flott å se på. Byen har en arkitekturisk utforming som gjør at de fleste steder, særlig langs elva er plasser man kan sette seg ned, tenke litt over livet og få noe behagelig å panorere blikket over.

Samtidig er det en myteoppspunnet hovedstad og på mange måter opphauset by. Jeg har vært i mang en storby rundt om i verden, også i Europa. Men det var som jeg på en måte forventet noe ekstraordinært av Paris, selv om den også ”bare” består av veier, bygninger, parker, elver og innbyggere. Selv om mye av det jeg har fått med meg er vakkert, var kanskje byen gråere enn antatt. Dette er nok preget av en skydekket himmel (bortsett fra i dag, når jeg dro), men jeg må nok innrømme at Paris ikke kan unngå å minne litt om andre storbyer. Dette er ikke nødvendigvis et dårlig tegn, bare at det unike forsvant litt jamfør forventningene. Men, som sagt, det var godt å være her.

Jeg skal ikke gi noe attraksjonsreferat, heller gi men vil dele noen tanker fra Le Louvre-museet og Eiffeltårnet.

Like ved elva Seine ligger verdens mest besøkte museum, med over åtte millioner innom årlig. Le Louvre er bare helt enormt. Over 60.000 kvadratmeter er hengitt bare til de faste utstillingene. En ting er å finne frem, skiltingen gjør ikke det så vanskelig. En annen ting er om du orker å finne tilbake. Sal på sal på sal i fire etasjer er fylt med over 35.000 kunstverk og historiske minner. Den totale samlingen er på 380.000.

Men det tar på å betrakte så mye kunst i flere timer uten mat og drikke (selv om det finnes overprisede kafeer inne i bygget). Kombinasjonen av impulser med det å stå og gå i lange tider, gir etter hvert en inflasjon i kunst som gjør at man ikke helt makter å ta inn over seg alle inntrykkene. Det er ikke mulig å få med seg alt på en dag uansett. Ikke på en uke heller for så vidt. Om man skulle brukte fem sekunder på hver gjenstand (inkludert en svært rask forflytning mellom dem), ville det likevel tatt over tre uker å få sett alt sammen. Men jeg er tilfreds. Særlig på grunn av at jeg fikk iaktta mer enn fem av Leonardo da Vincis malerier, inkludert - selvsagt - Mona Lisa. Da Vinci er min store helt, og Mona Lisa har hengt i plakatform på veggen på rommet mitt i mange år.

Toppen av Eiffeltårnet er dessverre stengt i ukedagene for tiden. Derfor fikk jeg og Alix i går bare med oss andre nivå, litt over 100 meter over bakken. Dette var noe nedtur, når toppen er 324 meter (øverste besøksnivå på 300). Men opplevelsen av å trave rundt i den 7,3 tusen tonn tunge konstruksjonen var likevel fin. På første nivå, var det av uviss grunn egen snøbelagt gåtur med truger til låns. Med over seks millioner besøkende i året, har det totale besøksantallet akkumulert seg til verdens mest besøkte betalte attraksjon siden åpningen i 1889.

Eiffeltårnet er finest på kveldstid. På dagtid er den mindre, blinkende replikaen i Las Vegas vel så kul å se på (selv om den ikke er i nærheten så høy). Når det gjelder musikk, liker jeg ofte den første versjonen man hører av en sang, selv om det ikke er den første man hører. Muligens er det også slik med byggverk. For å fronte byen, er det i alle fall mange andre ting ved Paris jeg ville trukket frem som grunn til å komme. Men et skikkelig minnesmerke (som det skjeve tårn i Pisa) er selvsagt kult å ha.

X: Hallo Paris!

Paris is cool. Paris is cool. My first day has been jampacked with great sightseeing, good food and a fun private party. My friend Alix has so far been a great guide, French driver, wonderful host with a joyous spirit. Pictures and more observations to come as I go along. But I may be updating primarily in Norwegian. So, while you wait, you could always learn my language and read below :)

Current status: Happy camper.

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5:50 begynte mobilalarmen å skråle. 6:00 var jeg på drosjen ned til Oslo S. 6:25 gikk flytoget. Og 7:55 tok Norwegian-flyet av til Orly. De siste dagene har vært såpass knyttet til det å gjøre alt klart før jeg skulle reise, noe som har forhindret muligheten til virkelig å se fram til det som skulle skje etter avgang.

Framtiden innhentet meg, og opplevelsen av Paris så langt er god. Jeg er med og bor hos Alix, ei av flere jeg delte hus med i Melbourne våren 2006. Hun er en prima guide, og hun og lillesøstrene og moren flotte verter og gøyalt selskap. Etter litt mat var det omvisning. Etter middag var det fest hjemme hos ei annen Alix med en haug av hennes franske venner. Dag en på tur ble svært lang, men også utrolig innholdsrik. Det er godt endelig å være underveis.

Jeg har vært i Frankrike en gang tidligere, og da litt over en uke, på kysten utenfor Bordeaux. Men den gang var det med tyskere, og en strandteltopplevelse som ikke krevde eller engasjerte så mye i franskmenn og det franske.

Og det er morsomt hvor tett observasjonene av typiske franske oppfatninger, og ord stereotyper er. Jeg har kjørt i avenyene full av franske balkonger, og tatt Eiffeltårnet og Notre Dame (bare på avstand foreløpig) i øyensyn. Her i Frankrike (som i mange andre sydeuropeiske og latinamerikanske land) er det med kyss på begge kinn en vanlig hilsemåte (i alle fall mellom gutter og jenter), og jeg har observert par i gatene som utøver de franske kyss (french kiss). Vi har spist både franske oster og pannekaker (crepe) allerede. Det franske språket er utpreget nasalt, og gestene i kommunikasjonsøyemed har et særpreg litt på lik linje med italienere. Den multikulturelle sammensetningen er også utpreget mer fargerik enn den i Norge. Og kvelden ble bokstavelig talt toppet med å snurre helt til topp i et digert Pariser-hjul. Den første Paris-koblingen var mest en spøk. Å se et Hilton-hotell i Paris, rett ved flyplassen, fikk meg til å trekke på smilebåndet (les: Paris Hilton).

Hvor ofte jeg vil oppdatere er høyst uvisst, men det vil nok komme i rykk og napp.

Tilstandsrapport: Sindre har det svært bra.

E: France & Mali approaching

Saturday morning my flight leaves for Paris. Hopefully I will be ready. Still, after a 12 hour work day today, I am not all set to focus on Mali alone on my last working day before take-off. The main theme story for the coming issue is close to done now, but has taken very many of my awake hours the last week. But it will all come together somehow.

I am not worried. And albeit I have had far too little time to work on my French, read about Paris and Bamako (++), I am thrilled to get on that international flight this weekend. In the French capital I will stay with a friend I shared house with in Melbourne during spring of 2006, Alix.

More about why I am initiating this voyage can be found in the blog past. Other than my Oslo – Paris flight, you can track my movements (if I get to the airport on time) by pressing this URL.

When, how and if my blog will be updated for the couple of weeks to come is not something I can clarify at this point. But I will most likely post a few travel letters now and then to update the world on what I am up to – in case anyone urged to find out. I am sorry for the slack job of updating lately. Life has just been a tad too hectic.

In other travel news, I will go to Poland before Easter with good friend Kjetil (who I joined to Italy last year same time). Krakow and Warsaw will be our in and out airports.